“If you get to North Shore during the winter months, and the conditions are right, you might witness some monstrous waves How tall exactly are the waves? Well, you see, during the winter, the waves can be more than 20 feet high or 2 stories tall – and remember that in Hawaii, wave height is measured from the back. That means north shore surfers zoom along waves with 40-foot faces or higher!
Thousands of miles north of North Shore, near Alaska, the sea gets stormy during the winter. These storms send huge ocean swells south, directly to Hawaii. But that’s not the only thing that affects these giant waves… ancient submerged volcanic rocks and lava tubes – as well as coral reefs along the coast – influence the direction and activity of the waves as they break along the shoreline. These two things – the big swells and the rocks and reefs underneath the water – create the huge waves that have made the North Shore legendary.”
I arrived on the North Shore of Oahu on January 2. After I settled into my home for the next month, I took a walk. During winter, I am on the seven-mile stretch of big wave surfing. Most of it is within walking distance of where I live. I get up in the morning and walk a half mile to the Banzai Pipeline, a famous surf break. There are big waves and big wave surfers. The first full day I was there, I found two surfing competitions. I got to take so many photos on that first day. I figured out what to do better and went out the next day to try again.
Surfing here is like watching other sports, such as football, baseball, cycling, and more. When something goes right, a surfer successfully enters the barrel and comes out again in one piece; the crowds cheer. When someone wipes out on a big wave, people cheer and groan. Definitely, it is a spectator sport.
The Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Surf Competition
On the first day, I found the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Surf Competition in progress at the Backdoor Break.
The Da Hui Backdoor Shootout is a unique surfing competition created in 1996 and run by Hui O He’e Nalu, a nonprofit entity dedicated to educating, coordinating, preserving, and supporting Hawaiian activities and culture. It aims to promote their progress.
Da Hui originated in Hawaii, founded by a surf gang called the “Black Shorts.” These passionate native Hawaiians were dedicated to protecting and preserving Hawaiian surfing, unyieldingly defending it. Their notable presence in the late 1970s, disrupting professional surfing contests on the North Shore by non-Hawaiians, marked the beginning of their significant impact on the global surfing community.
Da Hui actively supports local talents, enabling them to gain global exposure and promote the brand professionally. The Da Hui/Hui O He’e Nalu Backdoor Shootout highlights the classic Hawaiian surfing approach, focusing on style, strength, and reverence for the sea.
Participants are evaluated based on their technical skills, general strategy, choice of waves, and proficiency in tube riding, emerging with poise and flair.
The Backdoor Shootout holds a famed reputation.
It only runs when the conditions at the legendary North Shore of Oahu surf break shine in all its glory.
Each competitor is part of a team that is only announced moments before the start of the competition. The judging scale does not follow the industry standard. Waves are scored from 0 to 12.
The contest in memory of Duke Kahanamoku is held every year in January with a tight waiting period.
People love to watch surfing. If there is a competition, everyone shows up, sometimes for an hour, sometimes all day. And there are specific unspoken rules—well, not always unspoken.
I sat down next to this woman who proceeded to tell me that she knew I wasn’t from here because;
- I had shoes on. She rolled her eyes when I told her I had a heel condition and had to wear shoes or not walk.
- I must be a beginner photographer because I didn’t have a monopod, and all photographers carry one when shooting surfers and waves. I am not fond of monopods, so I left mine at home.
- Where was my bathing suit? I didn’t have one on. And if I did have one on, it certainly wouldn’t be a string bikini like most of these younger women’s.
One thing that comes with age and experience is that I had a good internal giggle and sat there and took photos anyway. Since then, I have met lovely people and enjoyed the island experience.
I met a big-wave surfer who took me on a tour of the North Shore. I visited surfboard-making and repair shops, saw several breaks, tasted local pastry, and enjoyed my day with this transplanted New Zealander. We ended the day meeting someone who was selling him a surfboard. It was a good day.
The waves had settled down until today. Although I visit the shoreline every day, I am beginning to explore other parts of Oahu. Do I want to spend time on the beach, or do I want to explore other aspects of this island? I will likely combine time on the beach with exploring other parts of the island.
Since the above paragraph, I have ventured abroad, as far as this island will let me. Everything leads me back to the ocean, waves, and surfing.
Incredibly, a small island can have such different climates. One side is wet, and the other is dry. Mountains are in the middle of the island, and they drop to the ocean floor in some places. Big waves happen on the North Shore but not on the other coasts. When the trade winds shift, the North Shore becomes glassy and idle.
I am getting used to living in a lovely apartment with much more room than my tiny RV. It is upstairs in a house. The windows are wide open, and the overhead fans whirr quietly. It is warm and humid, but the ocean breezes help it remain a cool and delightful place. One night, I heard drums playing somewhere nearby. It reminded me of the hula.
With two weeks on Oahu remaining, I will have plenty of time to explore, photograph, swim, snorkel, relax, and enjoy my winter on the islands.
Today, I am thankful for a sense of adventure that has led me to places like Oahu. I am grateful for indulging in a passion of mine. I am thankful for the wonders of nature. I really love my camera and my love of photography.
Today, I am Thankful.
Journeys of Thankfulness 