A Travel Log of Korčula: From Old Town to National Parks

One more Croatian Island to go. After leaving Hvar, we moved on to Korčula, another unique Croatian town and Island. I felt like I had walked into the movie set for The Lord of the Rings. True towers, a drawbridge, battles from the ramparts, pirates, and more.

Compared to Hvar and several other places I visited, Korcula was quiet. There were tourists there, but not in the numbers I had seen in many of the other parts of Croatia.

Korčula has been inhabited since prehistoric times, as evidenced by Stone Age finds from Vela Spila near Vela Luka, now part of the Vela Luka Culture Center’s collection. In the 4th century BC, the Greeks founded a colony on Korčula and called it Korkyra Melaina or Black Korčula. Under their rule, the island was called Korkyra Nigra. The attribute “Melaina” or “Nigra” this beautiful island owes precisely to the lush Mediterranean vegetation, primarily forests of holm oak and pine.

The island of Korčula is almost completely connected to Pelješac by the Pelješac canal. The town of Korčula is among the most beautiful and best preserved medieval towns on the Croatian coast and in all of the Mediterranean, and is justly referred to as “Little Dubrovnik.” It still has the appearance it had at the turn of the 16th century – the same stone towers, walls, and the same fishbone structure of the streets.

Korčula’s town planners took into consideration both functionality and perfect harmony with nature – the streets are lined so that the refreshing wind from the west can pass, while the cold winter winds from the northeast (called bura) are blocked.

We started our exploration of Korcula with a walking tour of the “Old Town”. Old town, of course, means within the fortress walls. Our guide was very informative. The creation of this town was planned well.

The steps are a later creation. There used to be a drawbridge where the steps are today. If the enemy came, they drew up the bridge. If you enlarge the photo by clicking on it, you can see the holes in the tower where the ropes were for the drawbridge.

The streets of Korčula’s Old Town are designed in a brilliant geometric herringbone pattern. Built in the Middle Ages by the Venetians, this layout acts like natural air conditioning, controlling the wind and the sun to keep the town comfortable.

How the Herringbone Design Works

  • Central Spine: A single main street divides the old town, running straight along the top of the island’s ridge.
  • Western Streets: The streets on the town’s western side are laid out in straight lines. This lets the refreshing summer breeze, called the maestral, blow straight through the town and cool the houses. 
  • Eastern Streets: The streets on the eastern side are slightly curved. This curve blocks the fierce, cold winter winds, known as the bura, from rushing through the city and freezing the homes. 

Other unique features of this town are included below.

Hidden Plumbing: The houses are built in long, parallel blocks. The fronts of the houses face the streets, while the backyards and wastewater canals were cleverly hidden in the middle of the blocks.

Narrow and Shaded: The side alleys are incredibly narrow. This provides deep shade during the hot summer months, ensuring the sun never hits the ground directly. 

Stepped Alleys: Because the town sits on a small hill, almost all the side streets use steps to help you climb up and down easily. 

Arches Across the Alleys: You owned a small home. If you wanted to expand and acquired the home across the street, an arch was built to connect the kitchens.

The Kitchens & Bathrooms: To prevent fires, the kitchens were on the top floor. The bathrooms were on the first floor.

The Street of Thoughts: There is one notable street running along the southeastern wall, without any steps. Local history says it was called the “Street of Thoughts” because walkers did not have to stare at their feet to watch for stairs.

Korcula Old Town, Within the Walls

Unique in its design, the system still had some flaws. The town was once home to close to 1,000 residents. They lived there for protection and community. Today, approximately 300 live within the city walls. Why? Look how narrow the streets are. No cars can come into these streets. That means you have to carry everything in and out of the walled city. There are steps everywhere; only one street has no steps.

While we were exploring the old city, we climbed the bell tower at the Korcula Cathedral. The stairs were not for the weak of heart. The view from the top was breathtaking. I hoped the bells did not ring while I was up there.

Climbing the Cathedral Tower.

One evening we went to the west side of the walled city to have dinner and see the sunset. People seem to do that a lot here. It was not disappointing.

Sunset View

On the second full day, we took the ferry, a 35-minute ride, to the island of Mljet. One of Croatia’s National Parks is on the island. With a bit of trepidation, along with Mary, I rented an E-bike to bike the park. After a few practice runs up and down the main street, I was ready to go.

Mljet National Park is a large area that borders two saltwater lakes. The Lakes stretch for about 4 kilometers. Right in the middle of the Large Lake, there is a small island/islet, Melita (Sveta Marija), with a large building of the former Benedictine monastery, erected there in the 12th century. The monastery’s building is now a café/restaurant. The small island is connected by boats that sail there from both sides of the Lake.

Miljet National Park.

The Benedictine Monastery is now a restaurant. You flag them from the mainland, and they send a boat over to pick you up. It was early, so we pushed on.

There was a small steep bridge we needed to cross with our bikes. Up, Up. Down, Down. Have I told you how heavy E-bikes are? Our very own angels showed up. They easily lifted the bikes up and down while Zee and I followed behind.

The bridge is fairly new. At one point, Tito moved to the island with the Monastery. He tore down the original bridge to gain full access to the ocean and bring in supplies. After he left, the new bridge was built.

The National Park was cool, quiet, and unhurried. It took us about 3 hours to bike the park. I enjoyed stopping and looking at all the Butterflies on the thistle and lavender.

Upon our return to the ferry port, we found a cool place in the shade, met this lovely woman from Switzerland, and chatted until the ferry returned us to Korcula.

Today we say farewell to the islands and return to the mainland. Back to the big city, Dubrovnik. Well, not quite the big city, as Dubrovnik has approximately 40,000 residents. I am not quite done exploring yet. We have two full days to explore before returning to Istanbul and the flight stateside. Oh, what a trip it has been.

Travel-log – Hvar Island: From Ancient Times to Modern Luxury

Time on the islands of Croatia never feels long enough. With the warm sunny days and the beautiful blue Adriatic Sea, it feels like I could spend more time on each of the islands I have visited. But wait…there are more islands to visit. I guess I will have to return.

A true hedonism has been present on the island of Hvar, ever since the time of sumptuous Roman villas, springing from the walls of Renaissance summer houses, and, despite all the challenges of island life, it slips even today into the reveries of modern nomads who enjoy the splendor of Hvar, where, 157 years ago, organized European tourism began.

As one would expect on an island, the history of Hvar has been broadly shaped by outsiders, each invading force leaving its mark, resulting in a rich cultural, archaeological, and architectural legacy.

The earliest signs of civilization on Hvar date back to Neolithic times and the so-called Hvar Culture of 3500 – 2500 BC.

Given its prominent position on a busy sea route, it is perhaps surprising that the island was not settled earlier than 384 BC, when the Ancient Greeks founded the settlement of Pharos (modern-day Stari Grad). The Ionian Greeks, the Parans, were in search of a base for military and trade expansion, and the deep bay at Pharos offered the best protection.

The first recorded naval battle in the Adriatic took place just off Hvar, with the Greeks successfully taking on the native Illyrian tribe of the Liburni.

With the decline of the Syracuse Empire, Pharos enjoyed a brief period of local rule under Demetrius of Hvar, who kept the Romans at bay until they finally smashed the walls of Pharos in 229 BC. The Romans used the island as a strategic and logistical base, keeping their boats in the protected bays of the Scedro and the Pakleni Islands. Roman holiday houses sprang up in the bays close to fresh water, most notably in Hvar, Stari Grad and Jelsa. Archaeological finds confirm that the islanders were engaged in wine growing, fishing, and trade.

There is little recorded about Hvar after Roman rule, but the island, along with the surrounding islands, was under the Croatian state of the Neretljani in the early Middle Ages before being briefly occupied by Venice in 1147. This was only temporary, however, as Croatian-Hungarian King Bela III managed to bring Dalmatia under his rule.

The Venetians were back in 1278, having been invited back by the islanders looking for protection from the pirates of Omis. One of the early changes the Venetians introduced was moving the central administration from Stari Grad to Hvar, and the new center became a regional administrative center for Hvar, Vis, and Brač. A plan to build walls around the town and monastery was initiated in 1292.

Venice’s rule was far from secure, and the island’s noblemen rebelled in 1310. Hvar’s rulers changed several times (Croatian-Hungarian kingdom, Bosnian kingdom, and Dubrovnik) before, along with the rest of Dalmatia, a more protracted period of Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

Hvar became the main Venetian port in the eastern Adriatic, but was under constant threat of attack from the Turkish fleet, which controlled the mainland near Makarska. A devastating Turkish naval attack in 1571 under Algerian commander Uluz Ali in 1571 laid waste to Vrboska, Stari Grad and Hvar.

Hvar prospered under Venetian rule and was known for wine, lavender, olives, rosemary, fishing, and boatbuilding. More than three centuries of Venetian rule came to an end in 1797, when the Austrians briefly took over before being themselves usurped by the French. The Russians bombarded Hvar in 1807 in a period of general instability and warfare in Europe, until the Austrians retook control in 1813, a rule that lasted into the 20th Century.

Austrian rule was stable and brought prosperity, most notably in the development of health tourism on the island, with the founding of the Hvar Hygienic Society in 1868. The oldest meteorological station in Croatia was also established in 1858. Austrian rule also brought infrastructure improvements to the island, including the rebuilding of all the ports, the construction of new lighthouses, the reclamation of malaria-infested marshland, and the construction of a road connecting Jelsa to Pitve and Vrisnik in 1907.

The Italians were back in November 1919, occupying Hvar once more after fierce fighting, an occupation which lasted until the 1921 Treaty of Rapallo consigned the island to membership of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, later the first Yugoslavia and then the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

Hvar’s latest (and one would hope permanent) change of master occurred on January 15, 1992, when Croatia was recognized as an independent state.

The former Yugoslav army (JNA) attacked Croatia in July 1991, and Hvar was blockaded the following month. The main effects of the blockade were shortages of foodstuffs normally brought from the mainland, such as flour, and a lack of access to hospitals and other medical services.

A ceasefire was signed, and the navy left Sucuraj territorial waters on December 3, 1991.

St Stephens Square

The situation on the ground in the mainland was dire, with large tracts of Croatia occupied. A steady stream of refugees had to be housed, and a logical supplier of beds was Hvar, devoid of tourists due to the conflict. Refugees, particularly from the front-line town of Vukovar, began to arrive by boat.

The refugee situation deteriorated in 1992 as Croatia took in numerous refugees from the brutal war in Bosnia and Hercegovina. The effect of traumatized refugees replacing affluent tourists was twofold: a severe reduction in revenue and a severe increase in wear and tear in the hotels.

A UN fact-finding mission in August 1992 found that there were 624 displaced persons and 3,727 refugees on Hvar, of whom 1,323 were in private accommodation, the rest in hotels. Usually closed in winter, most of the hotels had no heating installations, which caused problems for the new temporary residents.

With the demographic balance upset in both directions – an increased population during the winter and a decrease in the summer due to a lack of tourists – the hotels were full year-round, which had a negative impact on the condition of the buildings.

The absence of many paying visitors had a devastating effect on the island’s economy, leading to the closure of many cafes and restaurants.

The cafes & restaurants closed due to a lack of electricity (from the occupation of the Peruca dam, the source of hydroelectric power) and difficulties obtaining necessary goods such as coffee, milk, etc., from the mainland. Many of Hvar’s male population were drafted into the defense forces on the front line near Zadar, where one man from Stari Grad was killed, and many more returned suffering from PTSD.

Thankfully, both Hvar and Croatia have recovered well from those dark days. A highly successful marketing campaign under the slogan, Croatia, the Mediterranean as It Once Was, proved very effective, and a new generation of tourists joined the returning older generation to discover the magic of the Adriatic. Hvar was named one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world by Condé Nast readers back in 1997, and it has never looked back. Major investments in the town’s hotels and the upgrading of cultural treasures such as the Arsenal and the oldest public theatre in Europe has meant that Hvar is once more a major luxury tourism destination on the Croatian coast.

A trail from Hvar leads to Napoleon’s fortress, built in 1812 on top of a 230-meter-high hill above the town of Hvar. Today, Napoleon’s Fortress is home to the Hvar Observatory. The research office is dedicated to astrophysics and has the largest star telescope in Croatia with a one-meter mirror. The trail from Hvar leads along a narrow, steep path through a beautiful pine forest to Napoleon’s Fortress. The fort offers a beautiful view of the town of Hvar and many nearby islands, such as the Pakleni Islands, Vis, Brač, and Solta.

We did not have time to visit this fortress while we were there. The stairs looked daunting, and we had excursions while on the island. I would go back just to explore this Fortress.

The first evening included a sunset sail and swim. The water was not as warm as I expected. Our captain told us to give it a few more weeks, and it would be warming up for the influx of tourists in the busy season, July and August.

Our first full day, we took a high-speed boat tour to the outer islands, including the island and town of Vis.

In 397 BC, Dionysius the Elder, ruler of Syracuse, founded the colony of Issa, known today as Vis.

And like many other posts on my blog since my arrival to Turkyie the history of Vis is of the rise and fall of empires.

Much like the surrounding islands and area, Vis fell to French and then Austrian control. However, following the Battle of Lissa in 1811 (between the British, the French, and the Venetians), British bases were established on the island, including George’s Fortress. As part of the Austrian Empire, Vis became a naval base and was strategically important in a sea battle between the Austrians and Italians in 1866 (with Croatians making up a large number of the sailors on Austrian ships).

During World War II, Vis was the hiding place of partisan/resistance leader Josip Broz Tito, who became leader of Yugoslavia after WWII. During this war, Vis was also a major base for British and Allied troops – there is a British military cemetery on the island. Allied fighter planes were also based there.

A sign in front of a cave on Vis marking the fact that Tito – leader of the Yugoslav Partizan resistance movement during World War II – stayed and worked here in 1944

After 1945, Vis was closed to tourism by the Yugoslav army as it was used as a major naval base. The pictures below show bunkers on the island. They also had a hidden water bunker for any captured submarines.

It was reopened to foreigners only in 1989 and was part of Croatia, which gained independence in 1991. All the navy/military buildings on the island were abandoned at that time, although many of them can be visited today – including the cave in which Tito ‘hid’ in during World War II.

It was a full day of traveling and swimming. I took time in the evening to do what so many others do in Hvar. I walked the waterfront, and people watched. Hvar felt very much like a Mediterranean seaside resort. Don’t misunderstand me, there was so much history here to unravel and understand. But sitting in the main square and on the walkways on a Saturday night was truly a fashion extravaganza. Women were dressed in long luxurious summery gowns, and the men were in full suits. It was such a parade. I enjoyed strolling, sitting, and watching as the parade of people unfolded before me.

The last full day on the island, Zee and I went on a guided kayaking tour. Crossing the main channel from Hvar to the Pakslinski Islands was rough. Waves were coming in one direction, and the wind was blowing from the opposite direction. Big ferries and boats came zipping past. I was pretty exhausted by the time we arrived back in Hvar later in the day. It was quite the ride. Once again, we had this knowledgeable young guide with us who knew so much about Croatia’s history.

After a busy time on this island, we had to say farewell. There was so much to see here and the time felt short. But wait…There are more islands to visit, so sadly we had to say farewell to this island and the people who made it so special.

I realized today that in each place we have visited in Croatia, I have met the nicest people. They are from all over the world. It has helped that most have spoken English. Most people in Croatia begin learning English in grade school.

Enjoy the travel log; as my trip comes to a close, there will be only a few more posts. I hope that you have enjoyed the photos and stories of this trip.

And without fail…A Kitty!

Travel-Log: Exploring Brač: A Day in Bol’s Hidden Gems

It is hard to believe that we are winding down this wonderful trip to Croatia. The coast of Croatia is beautiful. Each day the sun comes out, the water sparkles many shades of blue, giving us (Zee and I) the time to explore and discover new things.

We remained on Brač in the town of Bol for one more full day. Finally, we had time to wander for a full day. This town was quaint and unhurried. First we walked in one direction and then in the other, discovering interesting sites along the way.

These photos capture part of our walk to the church and the Dominican Monastery Museum.

On our way to the Dominican Monastery, we came across this abandoned hotel.

It sits perched above a small pebbly beach on the eastern edge of town and enjoys uninterrupted vistas across dazzling azure waters to the wooded hills of Hvar, just to the south.

You can’t stay there, sadly. It was abandoned when tourists stopped coming to the island of Brać during the Balkan Wars.

In the early nineties it was used to house refugees. But when the war ended, and they moved on, it was stripped of anything valuable and left to fall into disrepair.

There’s always talk of it reopening. But a dispute with the Dominican Monks in the nearby monastery is complicating negotiations. The hotel had originally been a Dominican school, you see, and the monks were forced to sell it by greedy Communist officials keen to turn a quick profit.

The murals are painted by artists who gather here every July for Graffiti Na Gradele.

For five days each year the hotel becomes a hive of activity.

Streets artists come from all over the world to paint over last year’s efforts and create new masterpieces of their own. There are workshops for local kids, Hip-Hop concerts and even rap battles.

And then the hotel goes silent again.

The Dominican Monastery museum in Bol is one of the largest and wealthiest museums on the island of Brac. The Dominican Monastery is located on the east side of Bol, on the Glavica peninsula. It was reopened to the public in 2021, harmoniously blending modern design and cultural and historical treasures.

Next to the Dominican monastery is a church of St. Mary of Mercy, built and rebuilt at various stages throughout the 16th century. It received its present-day Baroque form in 1641. The main altar, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, is the work of the world-famous Venetian painter Jacopo Tintoretto. The authenticity of the painting is confirmed by records of the monastery archives, which describe the acquisition of this precious painting in detail.

Then we walked in the other direction. We discovered Wind-surfers, and learned that this area is a place where championship windsurfing competitions are held. Competitors arrived from all over the world to compete.

The following morning we drove across the island of Brasc to meet the ferry. Our time on this lovely island had come to an end and we were off to Hvar. Tomorrow Hvar. I promise.

But not before we met up with one more of the feline population.

Uncovering Croatia’s Hidden Gems: Split and Trogir-Travel-log Continues

Zee and I arrived in Croatia three days ago. It is very different than Türkiye. It is more modern, we don’t see any of the squatty potties we saw throughout Türkiye, more people speak English and it just feels esaier to move around.

For three days we stayed in Split a small town centered around a Palace, the Diocletian Palace. The history of the city of Split is inextricably linked to the Roman emperor Diocletian and his stunning palace which was built for the purpose of his retirement in the year 305.

Diocletian’s palace is one of the best preserved and most impressive monuments of the Roman era in Europe, and it has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1979. The palace was built to serve several purposes and combined imperial residence, a military fortress, and a fortified town. Even though its original structure changed and altered over the centuries, it is still, even today, the very heart of the city of Split packed with bars, restaurants, shops, and people wandering around, absorbing the vibrations of the streets.

Diocletian was born around the year 243 in Roman Dalmatia, probably somewhere near Salona, with the name Diocles. He began his career as a soldier, defending the distant borders of the Roman Empire and conquering new ones. Diocletian was proclaimed emperor in the year 284 with the title The Emperor Gaius Aurelius Valerius Diocletianus. He ruled for twenty years, which was a relatively long time at that period. He abdicated voluntarily and retired to the palace he had built in his Dalmatian homeland. At that time, the ancient settlement of Aspalathos, Latin Spalatum, was known as a small fishing port and had no possibility of advancement due to the great development of nearby cities, such as Salona and Trogir. The situation changed after Diocletian decided to spend the last days of his life precisely in Spalatum.

It is assumed that the construction of the palace lasted for 10 years. Diocletian’s palace was a very strong fortress that occupied an area of more than 30,000 m². It was constructed with stone transported from the island of Brač, in addition to marble from Italy and Greece, as well as the columns and 12 sphinxes from Egypt. The palace actually contained an entire city with streets, squares and buildings that served different purposes. The southern façade of the palace was located right on the coast. The other three facades were located on land and together with the southern façade closed the rectangular shape of the palace.

Golden Gate

The Palace was divided into four parts by the two main streets intersecting in the middle: the guards and military were situated in the northern, while Diocletian’s residence was in the southern quadrants. Each wall of the palace had a gate at its center, named after a metal: northern Golden Gate, southern Brass Gate, eastern Silver gate, and western Iron Gate. In ancient times, Brass Gate opened straight from the water into the palace basements, enabling goods to be delivered directly from the ships and stored there. Today, Brass Gate is the main entrance into the palace from the Riva.

After Diocletian died, his Palace became imperial property. At the beginning of the 7th century, after the devastation of nearby Salona, Diocletian’s palace provided shelter to the exiled inhabitants who were defending themselves from the invading barbarians. This period also marked the beginning of organized city life inside the Palace. During the following centuries, the area of the city of Spalatum expanded and parts of Diocletian’s palace were destroyed, while other structures were built inside it. The city gradually spread around the Palace and by the 15th century, it doubled in the surface. Today, Split is the largest city in Dalmatia and the second-largest city in Croatia.

The terraine here reminds me very much of southern California. It is a mediterranean climate so it should not surprise me that things look a lot like where I am from. On one of my adventures through town I found a massive Bougainvillea. Many of the flowers are the same as well. What is very different is the very blue Adriatic Sea.

The Second day we signed up for a tour that lasted for most of the day. We visited the UNESCO world heritage site, the town of Trogir and then prceeded to one of Croatia’s National Park, Krka Falls. It was a fascinating day with a bit of diversity in it, from town to nature and back again.

The Historic City of Trogir on the eastern coast of the Adriatic is a remarkable example of urban continuity. The orthogonal street pattern of this island settlement dates back to the Hellenistic period, and it has been embellished by successive rulers with many fine public and domestic buildings and fortifications. Its fine Romanesque churches are complemented by the outstanding Renaissance and Baroque buildings from the Venetian period. Its urban fabric has been conserved to an exceptional degree and with the minimum of modern interventions, in which the trajectory of social and cultural development is clearly visible in every aspect of the townscape.

The ancient town of Tragurion was founded in the 3rd century BC as a trading settlement by Greek colonists on an island at the western end of the bay of Manios between the mainland and one of the Adriatic islands. The town was enclosed by a megalithic wall and its streets were laid out on a grid plan. The town has been in continuous occupation since then. Its contemporary plan reflects the Hellenistic layout in the location, dimension and shapes of its residential blocks. The two ancient main streets, the cardo maximus and the decumanusare still in use.

The development of the ancient town is clearly expressed in the town plans. Ancient Tragurion lies at the eastern end of the islet; this spread out in the earlier medieval period, and the plan of two concentric circles of houses and streets, within the former walls, is still visible. The medieval suburb of Pasike developed to the west on a different alignment, and was enclosed by the later fortifications. The port was located on the south side. Finally, the massive Venetian fortifications incorporated the Genoese fortress known as the Camerlengo. The townscape of Trogir is determined by the pattern of, for the most part, narrow streets. Its homogeneity is stressed by the predominant local limestone, now mellowed by time with a golden patina.

The Krka National Park has held national park status since 1985 and is one of the most popular and well known of Croatia’s many natural attractions.

Being barely spoilt by humanity, this large expanse of 109 square kilometres is wild and attractive, boasting the highest density of wild lavender in Europe and sustains a variety of eco-systems.

Nearly 900 different plant species live within the park, as well as over 200 bird species and 18 different types of fish from trout to the Dalmatian Barbel Gudgeon.

The national park is also home to some of the most impressive waterfalls in the country.

At the end of the day we took a twenty minute boat ride to the town of Skadin before we returned to Split. It was a full day and a good day. As I walked along the boardwalk trails I enjoyed listening to the frogs and birds. It was nice to be in nature for a part of my day. Nature is always so important for my healing self.

Today it has been raining, thunder, lightning included for free. We took the boat to Bol. for two nights and now will be on some of the Croatian Islands before ending the trip in Dubrovnik in about 10 days. Stay tuned there is more to come.

And they are still loved and protected in Croatia. They have been loved and cared for since the plague. It was discoved if you had cats around the rats were killed. No Rats – No Plague. Yay kitties.

Travel-log: Today Turkey – Tomorrow Croatia

Well it has been an action-packed two weeks. When traveling with a tour group, one is on the move. I have seen a lot of Turkyie and reawakened some ancient world history.

Before I get on the plane, I wanted to share some photos of the last places I have been since I last posted.

First stop was on the Silk Road at a Caravanserais. Hmmm…What is that?

The site, formally known as Sultan Han, is widely regarded as one of the finest surviving examples of Seljuk-era architecture anywhere in the world, and carries the additional distinction of being the largest caravanserai still standing in the entire country — covering approximately 4,900 square metres, which is a considerable amount of 13th-century stonework by anyone’s standards. It was built between 1229 and 1236 on the orders of the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I, who had apparently decided that the 300-kilometre stretch of road between Konya and Aksaray needed a decent pit stop, and wasn’t going to do things by halves.

The word han translates roughly as “inn” or “hostel,” which rather undersells this place. Caravanserais like this one were the essential infrastructure of the medieval trading world — vital stopping points along the great overland routes of the age, including the Silk Road, that extraordinary network of tracks and paths connecting China and Central Asia to the Mediterranean and beyond. Merchants travelling these routes were shifting silk, spices, ceramics, glassware, and every other commodity you care to mention across thousands of miles of difficult and often dangerous terrain. They needed somewhere to stop, eat, sleep, water their animals, and repair their equipment. Sultan Han provided all of that, and at the Seljuk Sultan’s express instruction, it did so entirely free of charge for the first three days of any traveller’s stay. Three days. Free food, free lodging, free stabling. The medieval equivalent of an extremely generous service station.

In practical terms, these structures were simultaneously inns, warehouses, stables, bathhouses, mosques, and fortresses. The fortress element was not decorative — travelling merchants were carrying valuable goods through remote and occasionally lawless territory, and the thick stone walls and single heavily guarded entrance were there for very good reason. The Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm, which controlled much of Anatolia during this period, built a string of caravanserais roughly a day’s journey apart — approximately 30 to 40 kilometres (about 25 miles), a camel’s ride length— specifically to encourage and protect trade.

Once through the entrance, this courtyard would have been absolutely heaving with life. During the warmer months, traders arriving along the old caravan routes would have bedded down here alongside their camels, horses, and whatever else they’d dragged across the desert. It wasn’t glamorous, but then neither is a Premier Inn, and at least here you could see the stars.

One side of the courtyard is lined with a covered arcade — a shaded walkway of the kind you find all over the ancient trading world, designed less for aesthetic charm and more for keeping the sun off your head while you argued about the price of silk.

It’s generally believed that this arcade area originally served as stabling for animals or storage for goods — the kind of unglamorous but essential infrastructure that kept the whole trading system ticking. Nobody builds a plaque for the horse stalls, of course, but without them the merchants would have got precisely nowhere. Over the centuries, as the caravans stopped coming and tourism quietly took their place, the space was repurposed. It’s a practical reuse of what was there, and to be fair, it doesn’t feel cynically commercial — more like a sensible acknowledgement that the world moves on and people still need somewhere to sit.

As a reminder of the Caravan Days today next to the site is a small shopping area with a cafe. You can buy many things there but tea and ice cream are still a favoriite.

Next it was on to Cappadocia the place of the Cave Houses and Churches with a history that goes way back.

The cave houses of Cappadocia, carved directly into the soft volcanic tuff of central Anatolia, have been continuously inhabited for thousands of years. Originally adapted by ancient civilizations as basic shelter, they later served as safe havens for persecuted Christians before evolving into today’s sought-after boutique hotels.

Hittites & Phrygians (circa 8th–7th Centuries BC): Early inhabitants of the Anatolian plateau began carving basic structures into the soft volcanic rock for seasonal storage, wineries, and simple dwellings.

Geological Advantage: The landscape’s “fairy chimneys” are made of volcanic tuff, which is remarkably easy to carve with basic tools, yet hardens into a strong, insulating material when exposed to air.The cave houses of Cappadocia, carved directly into the soft volcanic tuff of central Anatolia, have been continuously inhabited for thousands of years. Originally adapted by ancient civilizations as basic shelter, they later served as safe havens for persecuted Christians before evolving into today’s sought-after boutique hotels.

The Origins: Ancient Civilizations

Hittites & Phrygians (circa 8th–7th Centuries BC): Early inhabitants of the Anatolian plateau began carving basic structures into the soft volcanic rock for seasonal storage, wineries, and simple dwellings.

Geological Advantage: The landscape’s “fairy chimneys” are made of volcanic tuff, which is remarkably easy to carve with basic tools, yet hardens into a strong, insulating material when exposed to air.

Kayakapi Premium Caves – Cappadocia

The Byzantine Era: Monasteries and Refuge

Early Christians (4th Century AD onward): During the Roman Empire and subsequent Arab-Byzantine conflicts, Christians facing religious persecution sought refuge in the region.

Underground Cities: Locals expanded the cave systems into massive, multi-level underground cities like Derinkuyu Underground City and Kaymaklı. These subterranean marvels contained living quarters, ventilation shafts, wells, and stables, allowing thousands to hide from invaders for weeks.

Cave Churches: Above ground, monks and ascetics carved intricate churches and monasteries into the cliffs and spires, such as those found in the Göreme Open Air Museum.

The Ottoman Period: Community Living

Expansion (18th & 19th Centuries): Throughout the Ottoman Empire, the rock-cut homes continued to be heavily utilized by the local Turkish and Greek populations.

Architecture: Traditional Cappadocian stone-cutting flourished during this time. Houses were built with arched doorways, stylized ivy motifs, and were often paired with carved dovecotes (pigeon houses) which provided essential agricultural fertilizer.Modern Times: Desertion and Revival

Mid-20th Century Relocation: By the mid-20th century, many residents began abandoning the cave dwellings for modern brick-and-mortar homes, as living in caves was increasingly associated with poverty.

Tourism Boom: In the late 1990s and 2000s, the value of the caves was radically reassessed. Their unparalleled natural insulation—cool in the summer, warm in the winter—and unique aesthetic transformed them into a booming tourism industry.

Today: Many historic cave houses have been beautifully restored into world-famous boutique hotels, preserving an ancient architectural legacy while meeting modern living standards

The Byzantine Era: Monasteries and Refuges

Early Christians (4th Century AD onward): During the Roman Empire and subsequent Arab-Byzantine conflicts, Christians facing religious persecution sought refuge in the region.

Cave Churches: Above ground, monks and ascetics carved intricate churches and monasteries into the cliffs and spires, such as those found in the Göreme Open Air Museum.

The Ottoman Period: Community Living

Expansion (18th & 19th Centuries): Throughout the Ottoman Empire, the rock-cut homes continued to be heavily utilized by the local Turkish and Greek populations.

Architecture: Traditional Cappadocian stone-cutting flourished during this time. Houses were built with arched doorways, stylized ivy motifs, and were often paired with carved dovecotes (pigeon houses) which provided essential agricultural fertilizer.

Modern Times: Desertion and Revival

Mid-20th Century Relocation: By the mid-20th century, many residents began abandoning the cave dwellings for modern brick-and-mortar homes, as living in caves was increasingly associated with poverty.

Tourism Boom: In the late 1990s and 2000s, the value of the caves was radically reassessed. Their unparalleled natural insulation—cool in the summer, warm in the winter—and unique aesthetic transformed them into a booming tourism industry.

Today: Many historic cave houses have been beautifully restored into world-famous boutique hotels, preserving an ancient architectural legacy while meeting modern living standards.

Our accomodations were in one of the cave hotels. It was exotic and stayed a pretty steady temperature without the need for airconditioning. It was a large room. When we first open the door I thought I was looking in a mirror. My bed was in the back and Mary’s to the forward part of the photo.

The last evening we had the opportunity to see the Prayer ceremony featuring the Whirling Dervishes.

A “whirling dervish” refers to a practitioner of the Mevlevi Order of Sufism, a mystical branch of Islam. Founded in the 13th century by the followers of the poet and mystic Jalāl al-Dīn Muḥammad Rūmī (Mevlana), they are famous for their Sema—an ecstatic, spinning meditation ritual performed to achieve a connection with God.The traditional ceremony and physical movements carry deep symbolic meaning:The Attire: Dervishes wear a tall, brown felt cap called a sikke (symbolizing the tombstone of the ego) and a long, sleeveless white robe called a tennure (symbolizing the ego’s shroud).The Dance: While spinning rhythmically, the dervish raises their arms toward heaven. Their right palm points upward to receive divine grace, while the left palm points downward to bestow that grace upon humanity.Cosmic Connection: The continuous spinning is a symbolic imitation of the planets in the solar system orbiting the sun and a mechanism to abandon personal desires in order to reach the divine.

The last day before we flew back to Istanbul was a mix of events leading off with viewing the area of the Fairy Chimneys. We were suppose to fly over them in a Hot Air Balloon but the weather did not cooperate.

Weather and Wind hellped create thes unique formations.

We stopped at a coffee house that served Turkish Coffee, Pistachio Coffee and Hazelnut Coffee. I had the Pistachio and it was delicious.

One of our last stops before our flight back to Istanbul was a stop to learn about pottery making and it’s importance to Turkyie.

The art of Turkish ceramics developed in Anatolia in the earliest ages of the region, and play a very important role in Turkey’s history and culture.

Turkey’s history of ceramic production dates back to about 10,000 years, with different types developing in multiple regions. During the mid-20th century era, mass production began as Turkish ceramic producers built factories to produce the ceramics on a much larger scale, leading to the popularity and incline in production of Turkish ceramics.

A big part of the fascination with Turkish ceramics was, and is, the strength of the shell. Turkish ceramics can hold good condition and their color for centuries.

During the 12th century, the Seljuk Turks created the ceramics using themes that focused on geometrical shapes and patterns and prioritizing shades of blue. As the culture shifted from the 15th and 17th centuries during the Ottoman Empire, colors of ceramics became more bold and distinctive, with clearer outlines and shapes. Iznik work grew to its peak in the 16th century, leading to the production of over 300 artistic workshops running effectively at once.

During this time, ceramics were not only used for decoration but also to assist in building and formulating a design for plain surfaces. Tile making, brick production, and roof production all have creative groups that are considered branches of ceramics. The most popular type of Turkish ceramic is the Iznik, however, there are many historic, regional variations of ceramics.

And just like that my time in Turkey has come to an end. Well almost.

Travel-log Continues: The Mediterranean Adventure

Moving on is what one does on a tour. It amazes me that I used to lead these. It is much better to be a passenger and look out the window.

After we left the ruins at Ephesus we started to head to the junction of the Agean and Mediterranean Seas. The next few days found us on the Mediterranean Coast. The water is so blue and the sky is so blue and all the limestone formations made the colors more vivid.

Riding across the Taurus Mountains to arrive at the Sea.

The Mediterranean Sea

We stayed in the town of Kas for two nights.

One afternoon we went to a “ghost town” The Ghost Town Kayakoy village in Turkey stretches along the hillside. In the XVIII century Greeks arrived here from Dodecanese Islands and founded a town here , it’s name was Levissi. In this quite a large town with about 3.500 homes the Greeks lived for centuries. In 1923 when the city had about 6,000 Greeks the “population exchange” was started between Greece and Turkey the Greeks were forced to leave the town. Kaykoy Ghost Town in Turkey was recognized as one of the World TOP 10 Ghost Towns according to National Geographic – a world leader in geography, cartography and exploration.

Following the Kayakoy history after the departure of the Greeks the Levissi city was renamed in a Kayakoy by name of a nearby valley – Kaya Cukuru (pothole from Turkish) and vacant houses were populated with Muslims that came from Macedonia. However the Macedonians did not like Kayakoy Turkey and they left the village – Kayakoy village became the largest abandoned Greek village of Asia Minor and it is called Kayakoy Ghost Town or Kayakoy Village.

Now Kayakoy Ghost Town in Turkey is open-air museum with about 500 preserved houses and three churches

Kayykoy

Upon Arrival in Kas we had a chance to see a small Hellenistic theater. Antiphellos was a small settlement and the port for Phellos, the much larger Lycian town further north in the hills. The small Hellenistic theatre, 500m west of Kaş’ main square, could seat 4000 spectators and is in good condition. It was built in the 1st century BC and restored 300 years later, probably after the great 141 AD earthquake. There’s a good view of Kaş from the top tier of seating.

Finally we had a full day on the water. After a beautiful drive through the mountains we arrived at a small village on the Mediterranean Sea. We boarded a boat and went to explore more ruins and go swimming in the most beautiufl blue water I ahve yet to see.

This area also had the ruins of a city that sunk into the sea after several earthquakes.

Located along Turkey’s stunning Mediterranean coast, the Sunken City of Kekova offers a unique glimpse into the past, where history and nature beautifully intertwine. Originally built on Kekova Island, this ancient city was a thriving harbor town before it met a tragic fate. Earthquakes and invasions led to the submersion of much of the city, leaving behind a fascinating underwater site.
Dolchiste: A Glimpse into the Past
Once a modestly bustling harbor town, Dolchiste was home to shipbuilders, merchants, and fish sauce producers. In the 2nd century, a massive earthquake struck, submerging much of the town into the sea. Though the city was rebuilt, it was abandoned after Arab invasions. What remains today is a fascinating blend of submerged and terrestrial ruins, collectively known as the Sunken City of Kekova.
The Sunken City Today

The day ended with a climb to a castle, where the view was stunning. There were tombs and sarcophagi scattered among the hills

Simena Castle, also known by its Turkish name ‘Kalekoy’ meaning ‘castle village’, is located on Turkey’s stunning Mediterranean coast in the Kekova Region between the modern town of Kasand Antalya, the province’s capital city. Once a notable Lycian settlement, the castle remains largely intact upon a hill overlooking the Gokkaya bay. Villagers have made their homes on one side of the ancient site and a handful of local restaurants can be found next to a small harbour, offering the daily seafood catches. It’s an interesting mix of old and new as locals have managed to build their modern lives while still maintaining the rich historical sites. To the west a series of rock-cut tombs are scattered across the slopes of the castle, you can walk down from Simena Castle and take a look inside.

Today I am leaving the coast and we are driving into another area of Turkey, Cappadocia.

I will see you all soon. Next post coming up. Wait for it.

A final pic of the day.

Travelog Continues: A Journey Through Turkey: From Gallipoli to Pamukkale

Two days ago we left Istanbul and began to travel.

First stop was Gallipoli

A peninsula on the European shores of the Dardanelles, the narrow strait that connects to the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. Gallipoli became the site of one of the early battles that turned into the kind of carnage that WW1 later became known for. For the British and their Commonwealth allies, it was a heavy loss, for the Turks a significant victory, albeit a particularly costly one.

The Gallipoli campaign is especially legendary with Australians and New Zealanders who played a major role and suffered bitter casualties (esp. in relation to their total numbers). In modern Turkey’s history, Gallipoli is also important because of the decisive role Atatürk played in it.

Gallipoli

This was an extremely moving memorial. I could have spent days here. There was so much to see here.

But….on a group tour one must move on.

Taking the ferry across the Dardanelles Strait

Troy was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt during its 4000 years of settlement. As a result, nine archaeological layers have been identified at the site, each corresponding to a city built on the ruins of the previous. Archaeologists refer to these layers using Roman numerals, Troy I being the earliest and Troy IX being the latest. 

Troy was first settled around 3600 BC and grew into a small fortified city around 3000 BC (Troy I). Among the early layers, Troy II is notable for its wealth and imposing architecture. During the Late Bronze Age, Troy was called Wilusa and was a vassal of the Hittite Empire. The final layers (Troy VIII–IX) were Greek and Roman cities which served as tourist attractions and religious centers because of their link to mythic tradition.

The site was excavated by Heinrich Schliermann and Frank Calvert  starting in 1871. Under the ruins of the classical city, they found the remains of numerous earlier settlements. Several of these layers resemble literary depictions of Troy, leading some scholars to conclude that there is a kernel of truth underlying the legends. Subsequent excavations by others have added to the modern understanding of the site, though the exact relationship between myth and reality remains unclear and there is no definitive evidence for a Greek attack on the city.

Troy

After leaving Troy we made our way to Pergamon. To get into these ruins, we had to take a tram. This is still one of my favorite sites on the trip so far.

This site rises high above the Bakirçay Plain in Turkey’s Aegean region. The Acropolis of Pergamon was the capital of the Hellenistic Attalid dynasty, a major centre of learning in the ancient world. Monumental temples, theatres, stoa or porticoes, gymnasium, altar, and library were set into the sloping terrain surrounded by an extensive city wall. The rock-cut Kybele Sanctuary lies to the north-west on another hill, visually linked to the acropolis. Later, the city became the capital of the Roman province of Asia, known for its Asclepieion healing centre. The acropolis crowns a landscape containing burial mounds and remains of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires in and around the modern town of Bergama on the lower slopes.

Pergamon

Yesterday, Wednesday, we spent the day exploring another UNESCO site.

The world-famous travertine pools in Turkey are located in Pamukkale (meaning Cotton Castle) in the Denizli province. This dazzling UNESCO World Heritage site features brilliant white limestone terraces filled with mineral-rich, bright blue thermal waters.

At the end of the 2nd century B.C., the dynasty of the Attalids, the kings of Pergamon, established the thermal spa of Hierapolis. The ruins of the baths, temples, and other Greek monuments can be seen at the site.

And that, my friends, is the end of this post. Whew. Remember that you can click on the individual pics and they will enlarge.

Although we are moving a lot and often, I am enjoying the journey so far. I get a bit peopled out, but there is always room to recoup before I join the group again. For someone who spends most of her time alone, I think I am doing pretty well.

The scenery is beautiful. We drove through the mountains today to return to the coast. The ride was beautiful as we traveled through the Taurus Mts. There was even snow on the peaks.

I will see you in a few days. Traveling On.

Travel Log: Istanbul’s Hidden Gems and Historic Sites

As many of you know, I am traveling. After a 12-hour flight, I am in Istanbul, Turkey. I am traveling for the next month. Two weeks in Turkey and then on to Croatia.

I realize that not everyone is on social media, so…..I decided to create a travel log on my blog for the next month. People want to see pictures. It might be a little less writing and a few more pictures.

After much debate, I decided to travel with only my cell phone and challenge myself to take good photos. I definitely am traveling lighter. I shall see how this experiment progresses.

Enjoy the photos.

First night in Istanbul.

The first full day, we had a walking tour of Istanbul with her very informative guide. Saw many churches and mosques. The oldest Catholic Church in Turkey and an Anglican church.

Day 2 – Istanbul Walking Tour

Day 3 – Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia Mosque.

Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul, Turkey, was the primary residence and administrative center for Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years, serving as a governmental, educational, and art center before becoming a museum in 1924. It showcases imperial collections, including the treasury (with the Topkapi Dagger and Spoonmaker’s Diamond), sacred relics, imperial robes, and manuscripts, all housed within its extensive courtyards, pavilions, and the Harem. The palace complex is a major historical site, offering a glimpse into the opulent life of the Ottoman court. 

Hagia Sophia is a monumental architectural marvel in Istanbul, Turkey, renowned for its massive central dome and rich 1,500-year history. Completed in 537 AD by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, it has transitioned from an Eastern Orthodox cathedral to an imperial mosque, a museum, and, as of 2020, a working mosque once again.

Finally we were let loose in the Spice Bazaar.

No visit to Istanbul is complete without stopping by the atmospheric Spice Bazaar. While the Grand Bazaar may be the largest and most famous of Istanbul’s covered bazaars, this spice market wins the prize for being the most colorful, fragrant, and often the most fun – as visitors can taste the goods on offer.

Built in 1664, as part of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex, it is known in Turkish as Mısır Çarşısı, and sometimes translated to “Egyptian Bazaar” or “Corn Market” (mısır means both Egypt and corn in Turkish).

Day 4 – Our last full day in Istanbul we visited The Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar

The Blue Mosque (officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque) in Istanbul, Turkey, is an architectural masterpiece constructed between 1609 and 1616. Renowned for its cascading domes, six soaring minarets, and interior walls adorned with over 20,000 handcrafted blue İznik tiles, it remains a fully active place of worship.

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) in Istanbul, Türkiye, is one of the world’s oldest and largest covered markets, a historic labyrinth with over 4,000 shops across 61 streets, selling goods like jewelry, ceramics, textiles, spices, and Turkish delights. It’s a major tourist attraction known for its vibrant atmosphere, traditional Turkish craftsmanship, and the necessity of bargaining, operating Monday through Saturday from morning until evening, and closed on Sundays and public holidays. 

Whew that is a lot of info.

Here is one more photo before I post this. Istanbul is known as a city of cats. They are fed and well loved by the locals.

From Healing to Adventure: Exploring Turkey and Croatia

In less than one week, I will be taking my healing foot on a new adventure. Next Monday I am going International. A friend of mine, Zee, and I are going to Turkey for two weeks and then on to Croatia for two more. It is time to travel.

Remember the Trojan Horse? Troy is on the itinerary. Ephesus, Istanbul, Cappadocia, all the names out of World History are going to come alive as we travel through Turkey. History will certainly come alive.

After the tour is complete, Zee and I will be moving on to Croatia. tour-free, although we did have help organizing our time. We are going to stay near the water, island-hopping, kayaking, sailing, and more. As I told Zee, no matter what we do, it will be amazing. When I have never seen a place, everything becomes interesting and the best place ever.

Covering Turkey in Two Wee

I always get the pre-travel jitters. I worry about everything imagined or real. This year it began with worrying about what type of suitcase I should take. Should it be small or large, soft or hard sided? What should I take? I worried so much I would stay awake at night. It is amazing what one’s mind can focus on instead of sleep.

Just as I had made a decision about the suitcase, the community page I am on for the Turkey tour, told us to travel light. Back I went to worrying about the darn suitcase again. When a good friend, Phyllis, loaned me her suitcase. I could breathe and feel good about my decision. Although it really was made by Phyllis.

Once the suitcase situation was resolved, on I went to all other matters real or imagined that my sweet brain could build up in the middle of the night. What camera should I take? What clothes should I take? Sunglasses, hat, shoes and on and on. What about this? What about that?

Once I am on the plane and on my way I am good but oh my, the getting there. When Jim, my husband was still here, he could calm me down. Burt now there is no one and I have free reign to imagine and fuss and worry. Oh my goodness I miss him at moments like this.

Mission Trails Regional Park

Each day I continue to move forward trying my best to love myself and find some joy in each day. And even if it is only for a short bit I find my way into nature where I am most content. Today I walked into Mission Trails Regional Park. There was rain during the early hours that left these beautiful clouds and blue sky behind.

How is my heel?, you may ask. A little over three months ago I had surgery to repair a bone spur and Achilles Tendon issue. I am doing well. Am I completely healed? No, yet I am getting there. This time I will take things to help me. Hiking Poles? Yes. Scar Cream? Yes. Compression Socks? Yes. I have worked hard to get to this point and I am proud of my determination, following what was outlined by my doctors, Physical Therapist, Acupuncturist, Chiropractor, Massage Therapist, ART Specialist and Myofascial Release Tech. Oh yes I have been busy healing. I am going on vacation from my regimen.

EmmyLou, my rig is going into storage on Friday. She is going to be put inside and watched and cared for. When I return they will have washed her and gotten her ready for summer travel. Ah, does that sound nice?

The countdown is on. Each day I have a list. If I allow it, my friends in San Diego help divert my attention and keep me on an even keel. Each day I take a deep breath, get ready, do a little yoga and take a walk. I am getting there.

Today I am thankful, for this crazy woman who is me. Today I am thankful for techniques to get me through my own craziness. Today I thankful for the opportunity to explore new places and be amazed.

Today I am Thankful.

The Ritual of Balancing a Checkbook: A Meditative Approach

Last week I sat down and balanced my checkbook. A habit taught to me by Jim, my husband who died over thirteen years ago. Every Two weeks we sat at the computer and did our financial thing.

I am thankful that Jim and I did our finances together. It started because we were buying a high priced item. I asked him if we had enough money to afford it. It was that moment that we became partners in finance. He told me that we had to do all financial things together from now on and so we did. Boy did it help after he died too young.

My Checkbook

It is not unusual to get comments from people, including friends, that I still balance my checkbook, with a big question mark at the end of this sentence. Like it is an amazing and quaint thing to do.

So much of our lives are on-line now. Yes I do bank on-line. Yes I keep track of all things financial on-line. Yes I shop on-line. Yes, Yes, Yes. I still like to see, in front of me that my life is in order, therefore balancing my checkbook.

There is something about sitting down, in front of my computer with my checkbook in front of me and settling it up for another few weeks. It is almost a meditative event in my often too busy life. I know that for an hour or so my focus is on one thing. I am sitting still and the outcome is that I know exactly how much I have to live and work with until I sit down again in a few weeks and do it all again. I can inhale and exhale and journey on with security for another period of time.

There are other things that I still do in “an old fashion way”. I think that people in my age group still do a few things in the old fashioned way. We pay bills on time, although on line now. I do my taxes via Turbo Tax on line. We clean the house or in my case my rig. Laundry gets done. The yard and garden gets spiffed up and the lawn gets mowed. You get the idea.

As I have aged I find these activities to be more meditative and calming. For a while all the things I need to get done are put on hold and I enjoy and focus on the task at hand. When it is done I feel complete and settled and ready for the chaos that is life.

At the end of the day, I am thankful for activities that help me focus moment by moment. I am thankful for my pretty sunflower checkbook calling me to once again come and sit down. Take a deep breath and dive in.

Today I am Thankful.