I have been in the wettest rainforest that I have yet to experience. I am on the Island of Haida Gwaii in British Columbia. It is west into the Pacific Ocean, further west than the Continental United States. And…it is wet!!! They experience approximately one hundred days of sunshine each year. It is wet! In case you don’t yet know, it is moist here. One day, when rain was expected, the sun came out instead. The people on the Island said they had a bonus day.

First known by the Haida as Xhaaidlagha Gwaayaai or “Islands at the Boundary of the World,” these islands are more commonly known as Haida Gwaii, or “Land of the Haida.” The area represents more than 3,600 islands in all, with an oral history that can be traced back 7,000 years.

“Haida territory encompasses parts of southern Alaska, the archipelago of Haida Gwaii, and its surrounding waters. The pre-contact population of Haida was in the tens of thousands in several dozen towns dispersed throughout the islands. During the time of contact, the Haida population fell to about 600 due to introduced diseases, including measles, typhoid, and smallpox. Today, Haida comprises over half the 4200 people living on the islands.”

In 2018, I spent a month on Vancouver Island, exploring Vancouver Island in depth. While there, several people asked if I was going to Haida Gwaii. I told them no. The idea of a trip to Haida Gwaii began to percolate, and now, six years later, here I am.

Why come to Haida? It is remote and rugged, surrounded by water and a rainforest. I wanted to learn the history of the First Nations People who live here. I came to see totem poles. Hiking in the Rainforest is magic. The people are welcoming and kind. Since canceling my trip to Alaska, I wanted an interesting destination in place, so I did not regret the un-trip to Alaska. And….I love to ride ferries (it took three long rides to arrive here).

I arrived on July twenty-first and will depart on August first. I have been on two tours to visit the remains of villages, learn about the First Nations’ way of life, and learn about the significance of totems. The tours were more inclusive than I realized. On the return trip from the last tour, we stopped to check fishing lines and crab traps. The natural food sources are very plentiful. More than once, the guides said it is only the individual’s fault if they starve on Haida Gwaii.

I have hiked and watched for birds, wandered beaches, picked up shells, and taken photos. I have met so many lovely people through the tours and in the campgrounds. The longer I stay at one campground, the more information the owners have given me regarding places to explore and hike.

While I was here, I took a kayak tour. We kayaked for six-plus hours. It was a long day. I saw starfish, anemones, sea cucumbers, and other sea life. The water is cold, clear, and teaming with life. Being out on the bay and exploring from the water was fun. The hardest thing for me was getting out of the kayaks. I have short legs. Here in Haida Gwaii, they call them canoers legs.

It has been a successful trip. I would like to return and take a multiple-day tour to Gwaii Hanas National Park. “Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site is a wild place. With no road access, stores, cell phone coverage and little signage, it is a true wilderness experience.

Gwaii Haanas is home to a plethora of unique subspecies and environments, it is also home to Haida. Today the Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada manage Gwaii Haanas through a cooperative agreement. They work together through the Archipelago Management Board (AMB), which protects Gwaii Haanas from sea floor to mountain peak.”

I have enjoyed my time here. I have stayed longer than most visitors. Three to four days is the usual stay. I am glad I stayed longer so I could experience more of the Island and its culture. The more the local people get to know you the more they open up and share their knowledge. It was nice not to rush.

I leave Haida Gwaii on August 1. It is time for another ferry ride back to Prince Rupert on the mainland. After two more ferry rides, I will travel through British Columbia to the Untied States. I am sure there is more adventure to come. Please come and join me.

Today, I am thankful, for my sense of adventure, and, traveling off the beaten path. I am grateful for the people who have encouraged and supported an unusual lifestyle. Today, I am thankful for the beauty that surrounds me.