Tag Archives: Whales

Exploring the Rainforest and Totem Poles of Haida Gwaii: A Unique Adventure

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I have been in the wettest rainforest that I have yet to experience. I am on the Island of Haida Gwaii in British Columbia. It is west into the Pacific Ocean, further west than the Continental United States. And…it is wet!!! They experience approximately one hundred days of sunshine each year. It is wet! In case you don’t yet know, it is moist here. One day, when rain was expected, the sun came out instead. The people on the Island said they had a bonus day.

The Rian Forest

First known by the Haida as Xhaaidlagha Gwaayaai or “Islands at the Boundary of the World,” these islands are more commonly known as Haida Gwaii, or “Land of the Haida.” The area represents more than 3,600 islands in all, with an oral history that can be traced back 7,000 years.

“Haida territory encompasses parts of southern Alaska, the archipelago of Haida Gwaii, and its surrounding waters. The pre-contact population of Haida was in the tens of thousands in several dozen towns dispersed throughout the islands. During the time of contact, the Haida population fell to about 600 due to introduced diseases, including measles, typhoid, and smallpox. Today, Haida comprises over half the 4200 people living on the islands.”

In 2018, I spent a month on Vancouver Island, exploring Vancouver Island in depth. While there, several people asked if I was going to Haida Gwaii. I told them no. The idea of a trip to Haida Gwaii began to percolate, and now, six years later, here I am.

Why come to Haida? It is remote and rugged, surrounded by water and a rainforest. I wanted to learn the history of the First Nations People who live here. I came to see totem poles. Hiking in the Rainforest is magic. The people are welcoming and kind. Since canceling my trip to Alaska, I wanted an interesting destination in place, so I did not regret the un-trip to Alaska. And….I love to ride ferries (it took three long rides to arrive here).

The poles are carved from the logs of giant local cedar trees and then painted. Different totem poles include clan crest poles, mortuary or memorial poles, and potlatch poles; totems are ready from the bottom to the top.. These are the remains of the totems of Haida Gwaii. They are left to decompose naturally. Only after the mortuary poles fall can the spirit of the chief be free.

I arrived on July twenty-first and will depart on August first. I have been on two tours to visit the remains of villages, learn about the First Nations’ way of life, and learn about the significance of totems. The tours were more inclusive than I realized. On the return trip from the last tour, we stopped to check fishing lines and crab traps. The natural food sources are very plentiful. More than once, the guides said it is only the individual’s fault if they starve on Haida Gwaii.

I have hiked and watched for birds, wandered beaches, picked up shells, and taken photos. I have met so many lovely people through the tours and in the campgrounds. The longer I stay at one campground, the more information the owners have given me regarding places to explore and hike.

Bald Eagle
White Winged Scoter
Red Throated Loon
Birds of Haida Gwaii

While I was here, I took a kayak tour. We kayaked for six-plus hours. It was a long day. I saw starfish, anemones, sea cucumbers, and other sea life. The water is cold, clear, and teaming with life. Being out on the bay and exploring from the water was fun. The hardest thing for me was getting out of the kayaks. I have short legs. Here in Haida Gwaii, they call them canoers legs.

Shells Along the Coast

It has been a successful trip. I would like to return and take a multiple-day tour to Gwaii Hanas National Park. “Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site is a wild place. With no road access, stores, cell phone coverage and little signage, it is a true wilderness experience.

Gwaii Haanas is home to a plethora of unique subspecies and environments, it is also home to Haida. Today the Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada manage Gwaii Haanas through a cooperative agreement. They work together through the Archipelago Management Board (AMB), which protects Gwaii Haanas from sea floor to mountain peak.”

I have enjoyed my time here. I have stayed longer than most visitors. Three to four days is the usual stay. I am glad I stayed longer so I could experience more of the Island and its culture. The more the local people get to know you the more they open up and share their knowledge. It was nice not to rush.

I leave Haida Gwaii on August 1. It is time for another ferry ride back to Prince Rupert on the mainland. After two more ferry rides, I will travel through British Columbia to the Untied States. I am sure there is more adventure to come. Please come and join me.

Today, I am thankful, for my sense of adventure, and, traveling off the beaten path. I am grateful for the people who have encouraged and supported an unusual lifestyle. Today, I am thankful for the beauty that surrounds me.

The Alaskan Adventure Continues

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This morning I woke up, opened the curtain, looked out the window and there were icebergs. Last night before I said good-night to an incredible sunset, an orca surfaced right next to the boat. How cool is that? I mean, really how cool is that?

We arrived in Tracy Arm around 8:30 in the morning. There were at least three glaciers that I remember viewing. Icebergs of all sizes floated around us. After another hardy breakfast (I am not losing weight on this cruise) we boarded the DIB’s (inflatable boats) and we went glacier viewing. This glacier doesn’t usually do much calving, yet, right there in front of us, pieces broke off and splashed into the water. It was loud and made me respect the true size of the icebergs that were floating around us. When you see an iceberg you need to remember that literally, you are only seeing the “tip of the iceberg”. There is at least 5-10 percent more of it underneath the water. They are huge. One of our crew tried to lift one of the small ones out of the water and even with the help of a fellow crew member they were unable to bring it up. When they tried again they were successful. Last night the bar tender was putting glacial ice in the drinks she was serving.

This morning I woke up in this beautiful little harbor, Taku Harbor. I am surrounded by green, healthy evergreen trees. There is another small boat sitting in the harbor. Today we kayak and hike. Almost every day we hike. Today will be the first kayak. I am looking forward to it. I love being on the water. I love to paddle and boat. 

This afternoon, I took the plunge and am now a member of the Orca Whale Club. So here is what I know. The water in Alaska is cold. I made a commitment to myself to do this and I have been successful. A rather meaningless point of honor yet a point of honor, still. 

As if this day could get any better, we saw humpback whales, lunge feeding. It is a behavior unique to humpbacks. The community, this time at least three whales, creates a circle of bubbles around herring and force them to the surface. The whales then lunge toward the surface bringing the majority of small fish into their mouthes. We were told it is not a behavior that everyone gets to see. How cool is that?

And so my Alaskan adventure continues. The scenery is amazing. Everything is green. The mountainsides are green. The water is green and the sky has been amazingly blue. Our boat crew have been very good at keeping us dry in this wet and moist rainforest. The weather has been surprisingly pleasant and there is more sun than I expected. 

Yesterday afternoon I sat on the upper deck in my t-shirt and sandals. Oh I had pants on too. I have discovered their library and I spend at least a little of each day reading and spending quiet time to reflect and recuperate from the other 40 plus people on board the cruise. 

I am doing well, being consistently around the largest number of people, since Jim died. I have been avoiding large numbers of people since he died. I am way more comfortable with small intimate groups and I still favor them. This group however is eclectic. They are from around the globe. We share a love of the wild and most, if not all, believe in conservation and the environment. There are people for New Zealand, Australia, several Alaskan residents and the rest are from the lower 48. Fifty and up is the prevalent age. There are many single women, one single man (he better watch out) and many couples. The conversations have been interesting and fun as we discover each other. 

Each evening we have a talk by the crew. Here are a few of the topics. 

  • The importance of food to the Kake people, (Tlingit tribe). This was presented by one of our naturalists on board who is a member of this small community.
  • Lichen and Fungi and the symbiotic relationship they have. 
  • One night we were read a story. Ah, ghosts and more abound in the mountains near Frederick Sound.
  • We learned a lot regarding Humpbacks and other whales of the Alaskan southeast. 
  • During our visit to Frederick Sound the Lighthouse Keeper came over to speak to us about the light house (he takes care of the building, the Coast Guard takes care of the light). He had the most amazing recordings of Humpbacks communicating under the water. There are researchers that spend time at this lighthouse hoping to learn more about these marvelous huge creatures. The lighthouse is open to the public and you can spend a night or nights there as well. Of course, one would need to figure out how to get there. Even that is manageable, it can be done.

It is hard to believe that there are only four days left and then I will step ashore, once again. When we cruised closer to Taku Harbor I began to see power lines. I found myself a little bit unhappy to see signs of civilization. I like being out in the wild, especially when I can be warm, dry and fed. I am being well taken care of. We are all being well taken care of. I sleep well at night, probably the best since Jim died. Fresh air, sun, hiking, and good food may have something to do with this situation. I love to sleep and wake refreshed. All I have to do is sit up, pull up the curtains and I am greeted by beautiful mountains, the forever expanse of ocean, all while I am curled up in my warm bed. Not too bad a way to start the day.