Category Archives: Hawaii

Remembering Jim: Love, Loss, and Lifelong Adventures

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“I talk about him because I’m proud.
I talk about him, because he deserves to be remembered.
I talk about him, because even though he’s not physically with me, he’s never far from my mind.
I talk about him because he’s part of me, a part that I could never ignore or disown.
I talk about him because I love him still, and I always will. Forever. Nothing will ever change that.”
I Talk About Him/Scribbles & Crumbs

On October 9, 2012, Jim, my husband entered the hospital for the last time. Neither of us knew that he would not leave and come home. Neither of us thought that the end of his life was around the corner. Neither of us knew.

Thirteen years ago on October seventeenth my husband of 21 years died. He entered the hospital the day before his birthday. Almost two weeks later, he died the day after my birthday. Yes October is a emotionally mixed month for me.

Oh, and wait a minute. October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. I know that some people who have had breast cancer are dedicated to this month. I thank them for that. I, though from the beginning of having breast cancer in 2010 have wanted nothing to do with this month. I don’t want pink anything. I want to move forward without the celebration and thinking of myself as a survivor. I want to live.

Welcome to October
Always an action packed emotional month.

It seems strange to think it has been thirteen years since Jim’s death. Sometimes it seems like it has been that long. Other days, it feels like it was yesterday. Sigh.

I spent most of my younger adult life thinking that I was going to be single my whole adult life. I made it to 38 and then Jim showed up and my life changed forever.

Each year I take time to remember Jim in writing, in thought and in love.

Jim & me dancing Contra Dance

Many relationships were made and dismantled on the dance floor of the New England Contra Dance community. If you have never tried this form of folk dance I suggest you try it. It is so much fun and it is certainly a way to meet people and make friends. And, oh the music! One night, this tall blue-eyed man showed up. That ended the idea of being single for the rest of my life.

Scottish Country Dance Ball

Jim followed me to other dance communities. He became a fine Scottish Country Dancer. We ballroom danced and chose to try several other forms of dance in communities around San Diego. It was fun. He did a mean waltz and polka. It was so much fun to have a dance partner.

The connection was strong and within a year we were a couple. I moved from San Diego in the fall of that year. I became a traveling nurse with Albuquerque as my destination. He didn’t want a long distance relationship. I said “How do you know if you don’t try it?”

Four months passed. Jim and I made several trips between Albuquerque, NM and San Diego, CA. I returned to the west coast and Jim. We moved in together and became a life couple. Was he my soul mate? I don’t know. I do know that even if it wasn’t perfect it was pretty darn close. From the moment we started to date we were close.

Everything was shared. Each month I would hike into the mountains to contemplate whether this was still a relationship I wanted. He would roll his eyes and waved me off. I would come back for another month. When I asked him if he had any doubts. He looked me in the eyes and said no. Eventually the monthly journeys move to every six months and then every year. I continued to hike and contemplate this wonderful relationship once a year until his death.

I have always been an explorer and adventure traveler. He joined me.

We took the train to Oregon. We climbed old growth Douglas Firs. and camped in the top of the trees. Did you know that there are no mosquitoes 25 feet above the ground? Since we were camped over 100 feet off the ground we were never bothered by those pesky little creatures.

Tree Climbing & Tree Sleeping

One year we kayaked the Nā Pali  Coast off the coast of Kauai. The only way to see this coast is by helicopter or boat. On one of the short kayaks, we sailed through the air on the backside of a wave. Other travelers kept saying, “this doesn’t look good.” It wasn’t but oh the fun. We survived. When we finally kayaked the 15 miles down the Nā Pali coast, we went into caves. We greeted sea turtles swimming by. We got to see firsthand this amazing and remote coast.

Another Hawaii trip found us inner tubing through the sugar cane fields and kayaking the rivers on Kauai. This and the Big Island were our favorites places to visit in the 50th state.

On Tour of the Galapagos Islands

Other adventures included Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. We Winter Camped and snowshoe hiked in Yellowstone National Park. We camped and explored Canyon de Chelly in Arizona by horseback. Jim had never been on a horse in his life. When a friend invited us to join her for a long weekend in Alaska. We enjoyed a long weekend of cross country skiing, yoga, and contra dancing. Always dancing. We explored our country, the outback and the cities.

Due to Jim’s love of astronomy we finally saw the total solar eclipse over Angkor Wat in Cambodia. During the summer months, the California desert becomes too hot. He would load all his astronomy equipment in the car and we headed to the desert. We camped in the remote areas of Anza Borrego State Park. There, we would stare at the heavens and talk into the early hours of the morning. The key to summer visits is to arrive after 5 pm. Be ready to leave by nine in the morning. Even in the summer the evenings are cool and pleasant. And…there is no one else out there.

Then there was the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Jim and I hiked it a couple of times. The real life changer happened when we decided to take a river raft adventure. It lasted 15 days with friends from Lee’s Ferry to Diamond Creek.

Looking out at the Mighty Colorado

At first Jim wasn’t sure he wanted to go. It was too long. What would he do if he got bored? I made one phone call to a long time friend, Sharon, who had rafted the canyon several times. After his conversation with her, he hung up and we made reservations. After that trip we always talked about “Before Grand Canyon” and “After Grand Canyon”.

This is a description of some of our travels. There were so many more adventures than listed here. We were always looking for the next new adventure. It was such a great experience to have someone to share the unique and normal with.

Now I carry on alone but not really. I carry remembrance of him and our life with me. I move forward toward the next adventure. And I carry the joy of those 21 years with me as I grow and change and remember. Some people have said that I should let him go and move on. I am not sure what letting him go means. How can I do that? Those 21 years changed my life. They made me grow into the person I am today. I carry my growth with me always.

I continue to adventure by myself. My friend in our soft adventures is gone. I wonder sometimes how different my life would have been if he was still here today. Yes, I have no doubt I would still be with him. I would still be taking the hike into the mountains every year. I would watch as he waved me off. And then another year would unfold.

Today I am thankful for Jim, for our positive and wonderful relationship. I am thankful to move forward and be so much more than before I met him. Today I am thankful for Jim and all those years of adventure and wonder.

Hmmm…Where to next?

Memorable Moments in Hawaii: A Two-Month Journey

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Do you know how long it takes to edit a slide show? It seems like forever, but I finished the video this morning. Two months may as well have been two years. I love looking at this slide show because being in Hawaii for that long was magical. Most people go for a week or two. Now, I wish I had stayed longer.

For those of you who don’t know me well, I hate to make plans. I had to plan for two months and more (what would I do on my return?). Finally, I sat down with many photos and created a slide show of my two months in the Fiftieth state.

What was special about my time there?

  • Soft and Gentle Trade Winds Keeping Me Cool Twenty-Four Hours a Day.
  • Green and Lush, Everywhere I Looked.
  • Birds I Have Never Seen Before.
  • Big, Really Big Waves.
    • Sunsets, Golden Glowing & Sunset Watchers. It is a Passion.
    • Visiting With Friends. They Let Me See Their Hawaii
    • Flowers, More Than I Could Begin to Describe. What Were They?
    • Orchids
    • Volcanos That Chose Not to Errupt When I Was There.
    • Kind and Wonderful People Everywhere I went.
    • Pineapples.
    • Shaved Ice.
    • Octopus and Other Colorful Fish. Snorkeling in the Beautiful Blue Hawaiian Water.
    • Green Sea Turtles Deep Sleeping on the Beach.
    • Mojitos and Lava Flow.

The list could go on, but I don’t want to bore you. Maybe you could go to Hawaii sometime and experience another amazing place on our planet. Then, you will find your own memories and magic moments.

Enjoy the slide show. It is a bit long. Just remember, I am a photographer. It is hard to eliminate too many photos when there was so much to see and do.

Today, I am thankful for the adventures in my life and for your willingness to join me in my experiences.

Today and every day, I am Thankful.

Unique Stays on the Big Island: Memorable Experiences

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My computer is back up and running. Yes!

When you last heard from me, I arrived on the Big Island with my friend and fellow bird-watcher, Zee. Being on the Big Island was a great way to end two short months visiting the 50th state.

First I want to tell you about the places we stayed. When I planned this trip, I knew I did not want to stay in Condos on the beach. It just is not my style. So, I searched for three interesting and unique places to stay on the Big Island.

Our first stop was Hilo. Thanks to VRBO, we ended up in the Rain Forest Apartment, a one-bedroom apartment with a futon in the living room. The owners are artists, one specializing in art in the garden, which was rich, lush, and green. At night, tiny lights sparkled like ferries in the trees and bushes.

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The other artist painted the apartments with the beautiful, lush colors of the tropics. Sea turtles were painted on the ceiling, floor, and walls. The hot water heater was covered with a decorative cloth, and a sun was painted on the ceiling. Her paintings hung on the walls. It was a welcome place of refuge after a day of touring.

We then moved to Captain Cook, on the island’s southwest side. Here, we found our way to a Balinese-style home. It was so interesting, amazing, and private, and I believe it was my favorite place I stayed on the whole trip. It was open to the outdoors continuously with screens on the windows. The master bedroom was behind an open-style kitchen and dining room.

The bathroom was across the walkway, and a shower was next to it. My room was up a flight of steps, with a Balinese bed built up high. I could see the treetops and the ocean. I have always liked being on the second floor and hidden from the world.

Up another flight of steps was yet another room for contemplation and writing. Other areas of the property contained a screened-in bathtub and daybed.

Everything was surrounded by nature. Geckos wandered freely through the lush gardens. One morning, the owner, Linda, gave us access to her home to take photos of the Java Sparrows at her feeder. They are the prettiest little birds.

Linda is also an artist and a delightful human being. Before we left, she had made us one-of-a-kind key chains and had let us each choose a stone heart to carry with us. OB, her kitty, greeted us each time she visited our home. He knew where the treats were. I would definitely return here again and again.

Finally, we stayed in a tiny home on a Coffee Farm near Kona, thanks to Glamping Hub. While Zee remained in the Master Bedroom on the first floor, I climbed up and down the ladder to the bedroom on the second floor. The best thing about this place was the large outdoor covered lanai. This area was designed like a living room with chairs and a couch. There was a fire table for heat on the cool evenings. The whole area was covered, so we did not have to worry about rain. It was one more delightful stay of many on this winter trip.

I have always enjoyed searching for unique places to stay while traveling. These three places and those on Kauai and Oahu have kept my streak alive. All of these places fit my description to a tee. I am glad I took the time to investigate the uniqueness of residences for this trip. They helped make this trip just a little bit more memorable.

AnnE Poining out more beautiful spots.

I spent the last three days with a friend who lives in Kona. Yes, she lives in a condo, but it is also a home, and I was welcomed with open arms into her life. For the last few days of my stay in Kona, I had a tour guide, so I got to see the island from a resident’s point of view. We explored unique spots on the Big Island, did some hiking, and explored small, unique shops. On my last full day, I saw some of AnnE’s favorite beaches and snorkeled at Two Step. The thrill of the moment was observing an octopus for several minutes as it moved across the ocean floor. I feel blessed.

On February 28th, I boarded Hawaiian Airlines and began the process of returning to the mainland. It was tough to say goodbye. There was so much that I saw in my time there. I met terrific people, swam, got knocked around by the waves, ate delicious food, hiked, and took photos to my heart’s content. The birding was terrific, and the sea life was amazing. I have fallen in love with green sea turtles. And the list could go on.

I am not done telling you about my two months on the Islands. As I sort through the myriad of photos, there will be more to come.

Today, I am thankful. I am thankful for the opportunities that present themselves. I am grateful for all the kind people I met in Hawaii and continue to meet each day of my life. And…ooh all that nature.

Today, I am thankful.

Aloha-Uh Oh Computer Trouble

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I moved over to the Big Island five days ago. My friend Mary and I are here until the end of the month.

I wanted to tell you more about the trip but computer tragedy struck and I no longer have a functioning keyboard. I am now limping along with my iPhone. Although I use my phone a lot I am not great typing long on it. Sigh.

Before my communications went south, I did spend an amazing day at The Hawaiian Botanical Gardens and I mad a slide show of that day. And I can share that with you. If you ever get to the Big Island definitely add this destination to the top of your list.

A Magical Day

It was lush. It was quiet. The flowers were odd and unique and beautiful. And the Orchids-Oh My! Even after spending a day at Volcanos NP, this Garden was the top hit of my visit so far.

I will attempt more. Until I get comfortable doing this on my phone enjoy the video.

Aloha from Hawaii.

Kauai and Oahu: A Traveler’s Paradise

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It is incredible how quickly a month can go by. I left Oahu for Kauai on February 1. Where did the time go?

I have seen big waves and surfers. Beach walking was a favorite activity for me. I frequently walked to the beach and then the half mile to Banzai Pipeline. It is interesting to think that it is smooth and glassy where the swells are now during the summer months. What? How can that be?

I really enjoyed my month on Oahu. I had a lovely apartment to stay in. I liked sitting on the porch and feeling the warm Hawaiian trade winds blow through. The rains went from soft, gentle female rains to raging, windy, male downpours. I saw the results of the flooding of the falls of the Waimea River that tore through the sandy beach, creating small, perfect swells that the surfers enjoyed.

And then there were the perfect sunny, blue-sky days with the soft Hawaiian trade winds keeping the temperatures cool. It was as close to perfect as was possible.

I have snorkeled, hiked, and even taken a boat tour to swim with dolphins. And oh, has that camera been busy.

The waves were twenty to twenty-five feet high the first weekend I was on Oahu. Only the bravest of surfers will tackle these waves. By the time the surfer reaches the foot of the wave face, they may be going upwards of 35 mph. Whoa! It is hard to imagine going that fast on a small board. How do you keep your balance? How do you breathe? How does it feel to have that body of water racing behind you? What happens when the wave wins? I will never know. Yet I will seek those waves out because they fascinate me.

Backdoor Shootout Surf Competition

I arrived as the Backdoor Shootout Surf competition was going on. I left the North Shore as the Lexus Pipe-Pro championships were beginning. I enjoyed the spectator part of this sport. I had no idea many people like me enjoyed watching the surfers and cheering them on.

Spending a month in one place has allowed me to relax my pace and not feel like I have to do everything all at once. If it was a rainy day, I could stay home. If I got tired, I could nap. Well, heck, I can do that any time, but I don’t when I am out traveling in Emmylou. I am a girl on the go.

Walking the Beach to the Point, Oahu.

My friend Tina joined me at the end of my time on Oahu. After a month on my own, it was good to have company. Since I had spent a month there, I got to show her some of my favorite spots and explore other places she knew of. I still believe that adventuring on my own is fun. Adventuring with someone else is even better.

Kauai the Magic Isle

Tina continued on to Kauai with me. After five days she left yesterday, and my friend Mary arrives late today. I still have a friend to adventure with and explore. In the meantime, I am snorkeling, enjoying sunsets, and relaxing on the beaches of Kauai. This is a magical isle.

Sometimes the choices I make are OK. Sometimes the choices I make are listed under “The Best Things I Ever Did”. Traveling for a winter to Hawaii is in the later catagory. And I am not even done yet. I still have the Big Island to explore.

Adventure On.

The Importance of Community During Tragic and Unsettling Moments

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I am sitting in my lovely VRBO this morning, thinking about the last week.

FIRE

The Los Angeles fires were horrific. So many people lost their homes, their livelihoods, and so much more. What saddens me is hearing people say that because some who lost their homes were wealthy, they can just replace what has been lost. If only it was that easy.

Emotionally, no one’s life is the same after a horror like this. Money or no money, the emotional toll remains for most.

Did you know that many organizations in Los Angeles are helping their own and those further abroad? When I began exploring how to help those in need, I found organizations I did not even know or think about.

How The Arts & Entertainment Industry Is Supporting Los Angeles Fire Relief

Alt Comedy All-Stars 2025

On Jan. 31, Alt Comedy All-Stars 2025 will occur at the Fonda Theatre at 8 p.m. The benefit show for Comedy Gives Back will raise funds for comedians affected by the wildfires. The talent lineup includes Patton Oswalt, Zach Galifianakis, Bob Odenkirk, John Ennis, Jill Talley, and more.

Celebrity Donations & Volunteers

An abundance of the Hollywood elite has taken to Instagram, donation drives and more to help rebuild Los Angeles. Paris Hilton, whose Malibu home was destroyed by the Palisades Fire, launched an emergency fund through her foundation, 11:11 Media Impact, to aid displaced families with young children. She urged Instagram followers to donate and kicked off the fundraiser by committing to match the first $100K raised and contributing another $100K.  Beyonce’s foundation, Beygood, also announced a $2.5 million LA Fire Relief Fund to aid families in the Altadena/Pasadena area, during the week after the fires began (Jan. 13 to 17). As confirmed by People, Meghan Markle and Prince Harry have taken in friends who were forced to evacuate to their homes and have plans to take action through their Archwell Foundation. Eva Longoria was among volunteers cleaning up the streets of Pasadena. She also pledged $1 million to support relief efforts and urged followers on Instagram to support The California Community Foundation and The Latino Community Foundation.  

Getty’s L.A. Arts Community Fire Relief Fund

The J. Paul Getty Trust has teamed up with the Mohn Art Collective (Hammer Museum, LACMA, MOCA), East West Bank, Mellon Foundation, TheBroad Art Foundation, Helen Frankenthaler Foundation, The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Qatar Museums and Ford Foundation to establish the $12 million L.A. Arts Community Fire Relief Fund. Administered by the Center for Cultural Innovation, the emergency fund will support artists and arts workers in all disciplines who have lost residences, studios or livelihoods or have otherwise been affected by the wildfires. Applications open on Jan. 20. 

Hollywood Pantages Theatre

The Hollywood Pantages Theatre donated $125,000 to five organizations: the Los Angeles Firefighters Foundation, the Los Angeles Police Foundation, the Entertainment Community Fund, Project Angel Food and Broadway Cares/ Equity Fights Aids. “Our hearts go out to everyone affected by the devastating fires impacting Los Angeles and our surrounding communities,” said Jeff Loeb, president of The Hollywood Pantages Theatre. “We are deeply grateful for the heroic efforts of our firefighters, first responders, and the countless neighbors who have stepped up to lend a helping hand during this difficult time. Your courage, resilience, and compassion inspire us all.”

LA Gives Back Fire Relief

On Jan. 29, The Bellwether will host LA Gives Back, and 100 percent of proceeds will benefit charities that support the community, firefighters, and animals affected by the wildfires.

Netflix

The streaming titan donated $10 million to the Los Angeles Fire Department Foundation, California Community Fund Wildfire Recovery Fund, World Central Kitchen, Motion Picture and Television Fund, and Entertainment Community Fund. “For many people who aren’t familiar with it, Los Angeles conjures images of palm trees and red carpets; mansions and movie stars,” co-CEO Ted Sarandos said in a statement. “But for those of us lucky enough to call this city home, Los Angeles is far more than that. It’s a family — one made up of extraordinarily talented, hardworking people from all over the world and all walks of life, many of whom came here chasing a dream.”

The Producers Guild of America

The Producers Guild of America and the Entertainment Community Fund have established a fund to support film, television, and emerging media producers affected by the fires. Producers can apply online for financial assistance, and those seeking help can donate through the Entertainment Community’s website. Already, $300,000 has been raised. 

Universal Music Group

Leading the way for the overhaul of Grammy week, Universal Music Group canceled all of its Grammy-related events on Jan. 13. Instead, it will redirect the resources it would have used for the events to assist those affected by the wildfires. “L.A. is home to so many of us,” UMG said in a statement. “We are committed to helping and supporting the music community, our artists, our teams, and the people of Los Angeles get through this horrific episode.” 

Warner Bros. Discovery

Alongside setting up an emergency relief center on its studio lot, Warner Bros. Discover pledged $15 million to immediate response and rebuilding efforts. “Our studio has called Burbank home for more than 100 years, and we are focused on what needs to be done to help those impacted rebound from this disaster and rebuild in the weeks, months, and years ahead.”

YouTube x Google

YouTube teamed up with Google and Google.org to donate $15 million to organizations offering immediate relief in Los Angeles, including Emergency Network Los Angeles, the American Red Cross, the Center for Disaster Philanthropy, and the Institute for Nonprofit News. “Los Angeles is the heart of entertainment and storytelling and has an impact on culture all over the world,” YouTube CEO Neal Mohan said in a blog post. “It’s also where many YouTube creators, artists, partners, and our employees call home. Like so many, we’ve been heartbroken by the devastation from the wildfires and want to do our part to support the community as it rebuilds.”

And these efforts are just an example of how Los Angeles and those further away are helping everyone recover from this life-changing event.

Loss on a Local Level

The North Shore community has been suffering a tragedy for the past four days. Over the weekend, there have been big waves, up to a forty-foot face on some waves. Two local teens disappeared after a date at Sharks Cove on Friday night. Sharks Cove is a well-known snorkeling spot.

When they didn’t return home, the girl’s mother notified the authorities. They found their clothes and car on a beach north of the cove. The Coast Guard, the Life Guards, and local organizations got involved. Over the weekend, they dove, snorkeled, flew helicopters over the site, and used jet skis to transport all the searchers. The family sat on the shore and looked out to sea. As of today, they have not been found. Slowly, the energy returns to normal, yet losing these two young lives will forever affect the community.

It makes me aware that no one is on permanent vacation or holiday. Reality has a way of shaking me out of my comfort zone. What can I do? For now, I can donate money to the victims of fires. I can help in the best way that I can. I can hold them in my thoughts and give prayer.

It is more complicated with the local community here on the North Shore. When they asked everyone to keep an eye on the water, I did. I noticed others walking among the lava rocks on the rocky coast. Everyone was looking. For a brief moment, the community, locals, and visitors alike searched the best way they could while not getting in the way of the Coast Guard and Searchers. Now, through breath and prayer, we can hold these families of such tragic loss in light, in prayer, or however you individually honor those in need of loving, non-judgemental, emotional support.

As my world gets thrown asunder, for a moment, a day, or longer, I will continue to find ways to lovingly support those in need. I can do this physically, financially, or through prayer. I can identify when making an unsound judgment on others, take a breath, and release the judgment so those unfounded feelings are not released into my universe or the universe. These are not the times for personal judgment. This is not about me; it is about others and me stepping out of the way so those in need will find unconditional love and support.

Today, I breathe deeply and send what I can to those in need. I hope that my breath will wrap around all of them, and maybe I will create one little spark of love and hope in a world that needs it so desperately now.

Today I am Thankful.

Exploring Big Wave Surfing on North Shore Oahu

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“If you get to North Shore during the winter months, and the conditions are right, you might witness some monstrous waves How tall exactly are the waves? Well, you see, during the winter, the waves can be more than 20 feet high or 2 stories tall – and remember that in Hawaii, wave height is measured from the back. That means north shore surfers zoom along waves with 40-foot faces or higher! 

Thousands of miles north of North Shore, near Alaska, the sea gets stormy during the winter. These storms send huge ocean swells south, directly to Hawaii. But that’s not the only thing that affects these giant waves… ancient submerged volcanic rocks and lava tubes – as well as coral reefs along the coast – influence the direction and activity of the waves as they break along the shoreline. These two things – the big swells and the rocks and reefs underneath the water – create the huge waves that have made the North Shore legendary.”

I arrived on the North Shore of Oahu on January 2. After I settled into my home for the next month, I took a walk. During winter, I am on the seven-mile stretch of big wave surfing. Most of it is within walking distance of where I live. I get up in the morning and walk a half mile to the Banzai Pipeline, a famous surf break. There are big waves and big wave surfers. The first full day I was there, I found two surfing competitions. I got to take so many photos on that first day. I figured out what to do better and went out the next day to try again.

Surfing here is like watching other sports, such as football, baseball, cycling, and more. When something goes right, a surfer successfully enters the barrel and comes out again in one piece; the crowds cheer. When someone wipes out on a big wave, people cheer and groan. Definitely, it is a spectator sport.

The Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Surf Competition

On the first day, I found the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Surf Competition in progress at the Backdoor Break.

The Da Hui Backdoor Shootout is a unique surfing competition created in 1996 and run by Hui O He’e Nalu, a nonprofit entity dedicated to educating, coordinating, preserving, and supporting Hawaiian activities and culture. It aims to promote their progress.

Da Hui originated in Hawaii, founded by a surf gang called the “Black Shorts.” These passionate native Hawaiians were dedicated to protecting and preserving Hawaiian surfing, unyieldingly defending it. Their notable presence in the late 1970s, disrupting professional surfing contests on the North Shore by non-Hawaiians, marked the beginning of their significant impact on the global surfing community.

Da Hui actively supports local talents, enabling them to gain global exposure and promote the brand professionally. The Da Hui/Hui O He’e Nalu Backdoor Shootout highlights the classic Hawaiian surfing approach, focusing on style, strength, and reverence for the sea.

Participants are evaluated based on their technical skills, general strategy, choice of waves, and proficiency in tube riding, emerging with poise and flair.

The Backdoor Shootout holds a famed reputation.

It only runs when the conditions at the legendary North Shore of Oahu surf break shine in all its glory.

Each competitor is part of a team that is only announced moments before the start of the competition. The judging scale does not follow the industry standard. Waves are scored from 0 to 12.

The contest in memory of Duke Kahanamoku is held every year in January with a tight waiting period.

People love to watch surfing. If there is a competition, everyone shows up, sometimes for an hour, sometimes all day. And there are specific unspoken rules—well, not always unspoken.

I sat down next to this woman who proceeded to tell me that she knew I wasn’t from here because;

  • I had shoes on. She rolled her eyes when I told her I had a heel condition and had to wear shoes or not walk.
  • I must be a beginner photographer because I didn’t have a monopod, and all photographers carry one when shooting surfers and waves. I am not fond of monopods, so I left mine at home.
  • Where was my bathing suit? I didn’t have one on. And if I did have one on, it certainly wouldn’t be a string bikini like most of these younger women’s.

One thing that comes with age and experience is that I had a good internal giggle and sat there and took photos anyway. Since then, I have met lovely people and enjoyed the island experience.

I met a big-wave surfer who took me on a tour of the North Shore. I visited surfboard-making and repair shops, saw several breaks, tasted local pastry, and enjoyed my day with this transplanted New Zealander. We ended the day meeting someone who was selling him a surfboard. It was a good day.

The waves had settled down until today. Although I visit the shoreline every day, I am beginning to explore other parts of Oahu. Do I want to spend time on the beach, or do I want to explore other aspects of this island? I will likely combine time on the beach with exploring other parts of the island.

Since the above paragraph, I have ventured abroad, as far as this island will let me. Everything leads me back to the ocean, waves, and surfing.

Incredibly, a small island can have such different climates. One side is wet, and the other is dry. Mountains are in the middle of the island, and they drop to the ocean floor in some places. Big waves happen on the North Shore but not on the other coasts. When the trade winds shift, the North Shore becomes glassy and idle.

I am getting used to living in a lovely apartment with much more room than my tiny RV. It is upstairs in a house. The windows are wide open, and the overhead fans whirr quietly. It is warm and humid, but the ocean breezes help it remain a cool and delightful place. One night, I heard drums playing somewhere nearby. It reminded me of the hula.

With two weeks on Oahu remaining, I will have plenty of time to explore, photograph, swim, snorkel, relax, and enjoy my winter on the islands.

Today, I am thankful for a sense of adventure that has led me to places like Oahu. I am grateful for indulging in a passion of mine. I am thankful for the wonders of nature. I really love my camera and my love of photography.

Today, I am Thankful.